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The Truth About Paint Protection, Swirl and Buff Marks and Paint Damage/ Paint Care

Paint Protection

This segment is covered in our website, comparing the difference with different products. Ours is NOT water soluble, a silicate, not a silicone and will stand up to wash and wear better than any other product currently on the market.

Swirl and Buff Marks/Spider web

Many do not know the difference between the two problems.

Swirl marks are the result of dead or uncured product (polishes and waxes) sitting on the paint surfaces and glitters in direct sunlight. This can be moved with a cloth, but will still leave an unsightly finish on the surface. Water soluble products do this as soon as it is exposed to water. Waxes melt in the sun and softens in the rain, making the surface shift, even if one brushes or lightly touches the surface.

Buff Marks on the other hand are micro scratches etched into the paint surface. These are the result of improper washing, using the incorrect washing sponge or mitt, buffing the car with the wrong buff pad or simply applying a very coarse cutting or buffing compound to remove paint imperfections.

When put in direct sunlight or strong white or halogen light, it resembles a spider’s web as the suns reflection is round, it picks up the deepest scratches emitting from the centre of the reflection.

A typical scenario faced every day by thousands of car buyers and general people just wanting their car cleaned/detailed or taking delivery of a new car is they receive a car from the detailer or dealership, which is delivered under very poor light and never under direct bright lights, is you get a ‘shiny looking’ car, you are not expecting ay of the above, swirl, buff or spider webs.  2 to 3 weeks later, after the car has stood in the sun, rained on and washed by yourself, you notice the dull, scratchy look, almost thinking you ruined the car, even though you were careful in washing.

Don’t blame yourself, chances are, and that’s a 99.9999% chance, you got the car like that.

After it was delivered to the dealership, after standing in a holding yard covered in rail dust, sea spray and dust, it would have been buffed by their cheapo detailer (as cost is most important to them) with a wool pad I would guess, which by the way is the best way to damage and hurt the new ceramic and hard clear surfaces. After this, a cheap shiny wax or polish would have been applied to hide the damage caused, which last just as long as the first rain, if you are lucky.

Best ensure after reading this, taking delivery of your new car should not be rushed. Do a thorough inspection and question the person that worked on your car. It would also be nice to find out what the detailer drives and the condition of his ride!!!

Never believe that cutting paintwork the 16th century way is good for your car.

Never believe doing a paint protection or paint rectification is expensive, because it is not.

It is cheaper, easier and safer to repair or rectify the minor surface damage almost every new car, especially the European imports which have softer uncured paints before the dealership has a crack at it, than after. If anything, they cause more damage which is harder to reverse or repair than rectifying the initial problem.

Our products and description of its use and process, once read and understood, will leave no doubt in your mind, that after using the Glare Range or our service, you will fully understand Clarity, Shine, Reflection and absolute detail which includes the treatment of Rubbers (Tyre Magic) that softens and removes contaminants from rubbers and unpainted plastics, Glare Zero, which cleans the paint pores, de-waxes and clay block which cleans the paint surface and removes surface contaminants like rail dust and industrial pollutants, Micro Pre cleaner that prepares the paint surface for Paint sealing and finally, the most technologically advanced product on the market to date… GLARE Infinity Plus and Glare Advanced.

After car kits sold and supplied only contain the best. Non-scratch specially blended wash sponges and drying chamois.

Ultra Wash for use with water which is PH balanced and washes leaving no residue on the car. Repels water like rainex does you windshield and Sahara Wash and Detail which is in Liquid form for that quick surface scratch removal and mirror finish.

That, in short, is the best you can get.

As for all the claims online from all the detailers trying to do the hard sell, claiming 36 to 40 hours of hard blood sweat and tears getting marks off the car, come visit us, save your energy, move with the times.

Buying just a bottle of our general purpose GLARE Polish and applying yourself will give you a better, longer lasting deeper quality finish than any detailer claiming to spend a few days rectifying paint and still putting a water soluble polish/wax as his final finish?????? Go figure.

It would be like spending the most money buying the best sandpaper, filler, primer/undercoat for your car and then using cheap acrylic to paint it.

You need an end to end as in reverse, it won’t work either.

Using cheap undercoat and materials to prepare, then using the most expensive topcoat, won’t give you the best as the preparation will fail prematurely.

We manufacture and use only the best and it is not expensive. Treat your paintwork like you would your skin.

Bathing in recycled water with cheap soap and drying yourself with an old piece of carpet won’t be good for you or your skin :)